• 7.1 What interior options were available?
• 7.2 Where should I look for my build sheet?
• 7.3 What are some things I can do to improve the interior?
• 7.4 How do I refinish the interior plastic pieces?
• 7.5 How do I install a rollbar or rollcage?
• 7.6 Are all Monza and Vega seats the same?
• 7.7 What's special about H-body air conditioning?
• 7.8 How can I change my speedometer to one that reads higher speeds?
• 7.9 My fan blower won't work on high anymore. Why?
• 7.10 What aftermarket shifters are available?
• 7.11 How do I clean my steering wheel?
• 7.12 How do I get better airflow through the dash vents?
• 7.13 What are part numbers for the heater core and evaporator?
• 7.14 How do I remove the kick panels?
• 7.15 What interior parts interchange between H-bodies?
• 7.16 How do I replace the heater core?

See the option codes list in part 1.

The build sheet is the factory's listing of what options they put on your car. It is "hidden" somewhere in your car during its construction.

For Vegas, try under the carpet behind the passenger's front seat.

For the Ohio-built (78-80) Monza/Sunbird/Starfire/Skyhawk, they are usually under the carpet behind the driver's seat. Also try the driver's side door panel and behind the passenger's side seat backing.

Other places to look are under the front seats between the wire and foam, and just about anywhere someone could hide one.

• Custom dash formed from aluminum or sheet metal--around $200
• Fiberglass dash--cost unknown
• Restore the original dash--around $300??? Just Dashes offers this service.
• Headliner--create new one from fiberboard and cloth or carpet, or buy one from JC Whitney (#78KE5663XF, about $55)
• Black interior pieces seem to age better than others-- maybe they can be scavenged from another car.
• PPG makes GM interior paint; be sure to carefully prepare the pieces before painting.
• Auto Custom Carpets have good reviews. They make carpets for the H-bodies. The price is about $130.
• Sun visors from a Chevette or Acadian bolt in. Tom Cochrane says this doesn't actually work; the visor doesn't swing level and will hit the roof.
• Grab salvage parts--see section 7.15 for compatibility list.
• Armrests from later 2nd-gen ('78-'81) Camaros and Firebirds fit the H-bodies and are still produced by restoration suppliers. (Note: earlier 2nd-gen ('70.5-'77) will not fit exactly due to the location of the lock pull and bolt).
• Another armrest: Motormite part #74314--only left side, only in black. It is listed for 76-81 Camaro, 76-80 Monza, 76-77 Vega, and 77 Astre.
• Motormite sells replacement seatbelt holders that mount on the upper part of the seat--"Shoulder Belt Retainer" part # 74310.

Clyde (CJBIAGI) tells about carpet:
"I have recarpeted the cargo area. For the bottom I had a upholsterer sew edging on the carpet for a finished look. I did the side area myself. It is a little tricky but what I did was just go over the original carpet. I tucked it in under the plastic beneath the window and then folded the bottom part under the floor carpet, I left about a inch so that the floor overlaps the side pieces. I used some spray adhesive to adhere the side pieces over the old carpet. I can't remember if I was able to do it in one piece or not, I may have had to splice it to go around the wheel well. Since the original side pieces are molded I felt that leaving them in place and just going over them was the best alternative. It came out very good and I have had no problem with it, it's been done for about 5 years. I used carpet from ACC and I just purchased extra carpet for the hatch area.

I didn't shave or do anything special to the old carpet before I glued the new one to it. I used a contact type glue that you spray to both pieces, let sit for a few minutes, then put the pieces together. If you were to remove the old preformed carpet you wouldn't have anything to attach the new carpet to, the old carpet acts as a "backer" for the new carpet. I also did the compartment by the spare tire well, I think I had to do that in a few sections since there are so many curves involved. It takes time and patience to trim the pieces so that they all fit together, almost like a puzzle, but again if you take your time it will come out looking like new."

For shiny bits, polish them and spray on a layer of clearcoat paint for protection. The finish will probably not match the original, but should still look good (fair warning).

For plastic parts: Clean thoroughly. If you've used a protectant, make sure it's off or paint won't stick. Don't sand unless you don't care about ruining the grain. Get some "vinyl prep" to open the pores of the trim piece. Then primer and paint using paint designed for interior plastic and vinyl trim. Mar-Hyde is one brand. Shops can mix up custom colors of it.

The pulley/driven plate is different than most GM A/C compressors for belt clearance. If you buy a rebuilt compressor, be sure to compare the pulley and swap it with your core unit if it's different. Tip: the compressor for a 1976 Oldsmobile Toronado fits if you can't find an H-body-specific compressor.

If looking stock isn't important, try an aftermarket one. There are plenty of choices.

The switch may be bad. It's discontinued but a switch from GM cars of the same era may be adaptable. Also check the blower relay.

• For non-torque arm Vega with Saginaw 4-speed ('73 up): Hurst Competition Plus part number 391-8790, plus installation kit 373-8604
• For Monza, 4-speed Saginaw (except 4 cylinder): Hurst Competition Plus part number 391-7875, plus installation kit 373-8619

Tim (joyride_23_98) writes: "The 72 [and 71] Vega used an Opel trans and shifter that had the shifter coming out of the floor up under the dash. To install the 75 shifter, you will have to measure and cut a new hole in the trans tunnel. You might want to cut and weld the shifter surround from the 75 into the 72 to ease the installation."

B&M Megashifter into '76-up Monza: Ken (mahoy78spyder) writes:

• "Use the '82-newer Camaro console shifter (not the '76-'81) The '82-newer one has a black rectangle base that matches very well with the texture and shape of the console (my console is black so it looks like it was supposed to be there).
• You will have to take the factory automatic shifter assembly and cut it off the baseplate that bolts onto the trans tunnel.
• You will have to notch a rectangular shaped cut-out in the back of that baseplate, and continue that notch into the trans tunnel as well. The entire hole is approx 3X6 but I will have to verify. This enables you to "tilt" the shifter back and just slightly below the floorline to match the angle of the console. Otherwise, your shifter boot will be constantly come "off" everytime you shift. It also allows you to tuck the back half of that shifter assembly "below" the Monza console and give it that "factory" look.
• Underneath the hole I notched in the floor, I bought a small (approx.) 4X8X2 bread pan (yes, I said bread pan - stainless) that I coated with undercoating and used silicone and sheet metal screws to attach it from underneath the trans tunnel to protect the shifter and seal out the elements (also the engine heat!).
• To mount the front of the B&M shifter I custom-made some brackets to "build up" the mounting point because the shifter is now tilted back. So basically they filled the gap between the shifter base and the trans tunnel. I bolted them in.
• Underneath the car I had to custom make a bracket to hold the shifter cable to the tranny. I took a generic cable bracket and cut and rebent it to put my shift points right where I wanted them.
• Other than that, the only issues you may have is bending that shifter cable back down through the trans tunnel because since the shifter is now tilted up in the air, you have to bend it even further to get it down through the floor. Not a big deal, but you may have to notch out a seperate area in the floor to accomodate the somewhat stiff cable."

To get the gunk off, one recommendation is "Prep" by Cosmetomobile.

Chvyfan1 writes:
"1. Make sure the vaccum control lines are all connected to the vac motors and make sure you have a vac source to the motors.
2. Make sure your rubber seals are good and not rotted; my evaporator box on the inside was not bolted all the way to the firewall. Resealing this fixed my problem.
3. Make sure all the control doors are working; these are a common problem.
4. Make sure your air intake is not clogged up in the cowl (leaves, pine needles,snow??)."

Heater core:

• Everco - H2265
• Four Seasons - 94550
• Stant - 90750

Evap Core:

• Everco - A9277
• GM - 3036664

Clyde (CJBIAGI) writes:
"Remove the screws around the vent and slide the panels to the rear of the car since it hooks on to the fender area. The whole thing comes out as a unit, the kickpanel, the cable assembly and the flap. I think it also goes under the door sill (the aluminum piece that covers the edge of the carpet) and that has to be removed also, it shouldn't be a major problem to remove these."

Marco (Monzabudd) adds:
"The kick panels can be a pain... 1st the seal around the vent may be sticking the panel to the body... and also the plastic extends up into the hole, you'll see what I mean when you finally get it out... I've always had to fight with mine to get them out, many have broken along the way, but not to the point of being unusable. If they at least come loose after ALL the screws are out (there's one at the top of the vent) then just wiggle them and they should eventually work loose. They go in easier than they come out also."

For Vegas, Dave (vegatex) says:
"Pretty sure the inside door trim panels are universally interchangeable. I believe the molded plastic ones I'm using on my '76 wagon were originally on a '73 or earlier Vega hatchback. The only big difference I believe you will find is the window framing is different on notchbacks and wagons compared to hatchbacks, so the actual doors aren't interchangeable between those body styles. From the doors back, however, there are major differences in inside trim panels between '71-'73 cars and '74-77 cars. BTW, if you can't find the right color panels in good condition, I have had good success wiping saddle-colored panels down with acetone and spraying them black with vinyl paint. Don't know how they will do long-term, but they look good, the color stays on, and only requires a minor touch-up if they get scraped or dinged."